Life on the Rio Dulce

N along the Rio

NE along the Rio

As everyone likely knows change is never an easy thing. Even harder is making a drastic change such as tossing off the dock lines, leaving everything behind and sailing off into the sunset. Rather poetic, sailing off into the sunset. Even harder for us, than the initial departure are the subsequent departures from marinas. Leaving an anchorage, even after several weeks is no big deal. Simply stow everything away, pick up the anchor and set the sails. However, even a brief stay dockside connected to land is difficult to break from. Why is that Captain Ron?

nobody knows



Boto at Mar Marina

 We’ve been tied to slip #13 at Mar Marina, Fronteras now for two weeks, we had planned to depart this past Monday for points further up the Rio Dulce. However, the weather forecast called for very hot weather coupled with thunderstorms for the week, so we’ll stay put for a few more days. Although we always make our voyage plans with an eye on the weather, this decision to stay dockside came very easy almost with relief. The upside is with the thermostat and humidity both in the 90’s we’ll have air conditioning. The winds will likely pick up along with the thunderstorms; we’ll be safely tied to the dock. While it does get bumpy dockside we have no worries about the anchor letting go and Boto ending up aground or worse, hitting another boat or being hit.

Perhaps for the sailor, land is a security blanket. Although we venture to sea we know that one day we’ll return to shore and the safety of terra firma. Is this a false sense of security? On board, even in the worst of weather we have never felt that Boto would let us down, she is most seaworthy. Perhaps it’s the boat bites*.



why do we like to be shore side?




boat bite

 *Boat bites are administered by a boat to careless humans. While not all bites draw blood, many do. In order for a bite to be recognized the human must be able to recount how it happened, if the human is unable to recall how the bite happened, then it did not happen. So stop your whining. Remember, No Sniveling!

Dockside, we can simply step ashore and walk, whereas when at anchor we must use the dinghy to take us ashore. However, while tied dockside we lament the loss of our ability to simply dive over the side and go for a swim to cool off. Chula certainly enjoys the ability to leap from the deck to the dock and to run through the trees, although she will admit that she really misses the run along a beach and the refreshing dip in the sea.

Perhaps it’s the readily available food items. On shore we can visit the grocery or a pub, at anchor we usually cook aboard, which heats up the cabin making us go topside to dive over the side to cool off. Perhaps it’s the company of others, on board there are the three of us, a book or movie or perhaps the radio. Ashore there is live entertainment and the chance to sit and chat with others, maybe even someone famous?


is that you Lefty?

 



just a little pickin' and singin'

Whatever the draw of being ashore, we must be wary of the critters. On the water we obviously have all sorts of marine life.  There is also a good deal of avian life.  It is amazing to find a bird in the middle of the ocean.  Obviously on shore there are many birds, there are also many other species, including snakes.  Snakes are Vicky's new obsession, ever since her run in with a green tree snake on the dock.  The Green Tree snake is not poisonous, the two to watch out for in Guatemala are the Coral and the Fer-de-Lance.  Although Vicky ran into a harmless Green Tree Snake, Pedro the dock hand here at the marina dispatched it to the great beyond non-the-less.  A word to the wise from Pedro, all snakes are bad.

Vicky's snake is ok





Enroute to the Rio Dulce



We wish we would have taken some pictures during our crossing from Utila to the Rio Dulce (we borrowed this one from online) however, during the overnight portion of the crossing we were otherwise occupied with a storm.  This picture does give an accurate representation of the storm off the coast of Honduras and Guatemala.

In preparation for the 110nm voyage from Utila to the Rio Dulce we checked the weather and the tides. The toughest part, so we were told of getting to the Rio Dulce is picking the appropriate high tide to cross from the Caribbean into the river. With a mean depth of 5.6’ we figured we would not have a problem with our five foot draft, however it is always a good idea to have a fudge factor. After checking the tides we decided that we could make it across on April 4 at 0630 when the high tide would be plus 1.32 feet. This coupled nicely with the weather forecast for the Utila westward to the Rio was: afternoons and evenings NE/SE winds 10-15k, morning winds would be variable and less than 10k. Granted the offshore forecast for Belize and Honduras was: afternoons and evenings SE 15-20k, with the overnight winds kicking up to 20-25k. Somewhere in all of the forecasts we consult there was a mention of “unstable atmosphere which may cause isolated squalls”. Of course this was all for off shore, we would be within spitting distance of the coasts of Honduras and Guatemala, so things looked good for us.

Leaving Utilia at the civilized hour of 0800 on April 3, we even checked the weather once more that morning just because we plan carefully for our crossings. The day was wonderful, we started off motor sailing with light winds from the SE that promptly swung to the SW (first hint of bad things to come, we paid little attention). By noon we are still motor sailing as the wind is almost behind us and less than 10k, oh the wind is now from the NE (hmmm, that’s strange the wind keeps clocking around us, oh well).

Well, in keeping with the photo above the lightening began shortly after sunset and continued well into the following morning. The real fun started about 2130 hours on April 3 (we were later told of a tornado that went through the Texan Bay anchorage at that time) when the winds still behind us began to increase, 10-15k, 15-20k, 20-25k, 35-40k etc…. We reefed all sail, but along with the increase in strength the wind kept clocking around the compass. Fortunately for us we were in deep water, 2,000 feet + and the wind was strong enough to knock down any waves so although an annoyance the increased winds were no big issue. The thunder and lightening were very much an issue, of course what fun is thunder and lightning without rain, thankfully we had our foul weather gear at hand.

Livingston's welcoming committee

Well it took 24 hours but we made it to Livingston, Guatemala tired but otherwise unscathed. The check in process is simple, get on the radio and call Raul. Raul shows up to the boat along with the Port Captain, Immigration, Customs, and the Health Official. Multiple copies of our passports and boat papers are taken and they all leave. An hour later and Raul has our papers to enter Guatemala all set to go. We are officially on our way to the Rio Dulce.

Fresh water! Boto has never been in fresh water before, she runs well. The first several miles up the river takes us to Texan Bay where we drop the anchor in six feet of water and relax. We haven’t been in so shallow water since leaving Galveston Bay. It is simply wonderful to jump off the boat into fresh water, take a bath in the warm water, do laundry and wash the boat.

After a few days exploring and cleaning in Texan Bay we are ready for a little vacation so it is further up the river to Frontera and the Mar Marina. Putting into a marina is always fun, we have AC power which means we have air conditioning, we have laundry facilities (although we still do ours by hand, safer that way) unlimited fresh, pressurized water, a restaurant and bar, movie night, volley ball … you get the idea. We plan to stay put for a week before heading further up the river to explore. We hear of hot sulphur springs and waterfalls, there are Mayan ruins and numerous river arteries to explore, so stay tuned. Well, it looks like we have finally caught up to ourselves, it only took three years.

Bay Islands

Guanaja

Thursday, March 15, 2012 (well it’s really April 11, but we’re getting closer) we have dropped our anchor in Sandy Bay, Guanaja one of the Bay Islands of Honduras. A sail of 150nm from the Vivarellos taking us 29 hours. We are ready for a nap. Upon arriving at Guanaja we first head to the Settlement to check in. The Settlement is the main town of the island; actually the Settlement takes up most of a smaller island a stones throw off the main island. Way back when the folks that settled here set up their settlement on the smaller island to give themselves a sense o safety and protection, from then the name stuck. This is one of the centers of the Bay Islands fishing fleet and not a location to spend a night at anchor, there is far too much boat traffic. We quickly drop the dink and head into town to visit Immigration and the Port Captain. The Port Captains office is at the town dock, however before visiting him you must first find your way to the Immigration office (bring copies of your passport as well as a copy of your zarpe from the last port of call, two copies of each should do it). From the Port Captains office head up the alley to the “main road” and hang a right, keep walking until you find the Immigration office on the right; it’s a five minute walk. Also, be sure to have the entire crew come ashore, otherwise a trip back to the boat to gather them up will be required. After finishing up with Immigration, we head back to the Port Captain for our entry papers at a cost of US$ 10. 

sunrise Sandy Bay

After so much stress we stop for a refreshment at a local establishment and catch up with some cruisers who call Guanaja home. It is from this group that we learn of the anchorage at Sandy Bay, a short hop east of the Settlement. After nearly two months of rockin-n-rollin at anchor or underway we have found PARADISE. With not a ripple across the bay and a clear night sky we crawl into the v-berth for a good afternoons/nights rest. The evening proves to be cool requiring the addition of a blanket to the bed, allowing for a wonderful twelve hours rest.

fishing fleet

Our first order of business is to resupply the fresh water tanks to allow for showers and laundry. For this we head into the Manati Bar and Restaurant, a short few hundred yards off the stern of Boto. Claus and Annette run the Manati and offer fresh water at their dock gratis; of course we felt the need to be hospitable so we joined them for a nice liter of Bavarian Dark beer and some onion pie. Claus and Annette are from Germany and have been in Honduras and the Bay Islands for a couple of decades; however they still manage to import some of their favorite gastronomic items from the fatherland.



chillin' at La Giralda

 With water topped off and chores done for the day we are ready to relax, but first a visit from the folks at the La Giralda resort (www.bayislandhotel.com). They’ve stopped by in their run-about to invite us to the Friday Night bonfire complete with coupons for a free drink and to offer us a complimentary bag of ice. The folks at La Giralda know how to get our attention. Guanaja is quickly becoming one of our favorites.

the local highway

a side street

We mentioned the resorts run-about, this needs further explanation. Other than the pedestrian walkway on the Settlement, the island of Guianaja has only one road. That road is a one mile stretch between two of the villages on the north side of the island, otherwise there are no roads. The primary mode of transportation is water craft, followed by foot power.

beach combing



While the south side of the island boasts most of the population, if heading to Guanaja we suggest spending some time on the north side as well. Although the north is fringed by coral reef a nice clear day with good visibility makes it an easy trip. We take the 20nm trip around the island to drop anchor off Michaels Rock. Here we find excellent hiking and snorkeling as well as simple beach combing. The north side offers a great expanse of white sand beach in and of itself worth the trip. Of course we also went for the waterfall (well more of a junior waterfall, but fresh cool water none the less).

With a week’s rest behind us it is time to carry on heading west to the island of Roatan. The weather these last few months have been ideal for sailing, actually using the white hankies that make us a sailing vessel. The trip to Roatan is no exception; we cover the 30nm in five hours sailing downwind in 15-20k of breeze.

the falls

Bubba at the falls

Our first stop is Jonesville Bight. As we approach to cut into the bight the wind calms down as does the swell allowing us to make out the channel through the reef quite easily. The cut requires us to put a little “English” on our entrance in order to avoid the shoals to either side, of course just as we make our turn to head through the cut the wind kicks up to 20k pushing the swell over the reef making for a fun filled surge into the anchorage. We make it through with the depth rising to ten feet before dropping off again to fifty; always have enjoyed entering a new anchorage. Jonesville is a nice introduction to Roatan, a little busier than Guanaja but not quite so much as French Harbor. Next up for us is French Cay Harbor, for those heading this way make your way into French Cay Harbor rather than French Harbor, the later is primarily commercial in nature. There are some buoys in French Cay however we opt for our anchor as a known quantity. There is a beautiful marine park off our anchorage which offers some nice snorkeling and there is always the resort ashore for volleyball, BBQ, WiFi, Happy Hour, Pot-lucks (reminds us of the Bahamas).

Jonesville Bight

Jonesville school bus

 After three years cruising we rarely just go sailing, actually we never do. However, we met a couple from Colorado at the resort who expressed an interest in sailing so we invited them aboard. With little forecast for good wind we head out of the anchorage for a few hours tour. To our surprise the wind picked up we shut off the engine and just sailed for two hours with now destination in mind, just following the wind. What a great day we had, just enjoying the sea and sun. Odd how even life on the water can become routine after a while, it was great to be reminded of how much we enjoy being on the water.

the end of a day sail

Once again we are off, this time to Utila the last and most westward of the Bay Islands and our jumping off point for Guatemala. Although we had planned on staying in the Bay Islands for a while longer the weather window for heading west is too attractive to pass up. Planning a few days stopover in Utila before making the overnight passage to the Rio Dulce we bid Roatan farewell on March 29. If asked and we were, to rate the Bay Islands we would have to put Guanaja first, Utila second and Roatan third. Keep in mind that the three islands have very different environments. Guanaja being remote and relaxed, while Roatan offers more of a tourist/city destination (however keep in mind this is still the Caribbean) and Utila is somewhere in the middle.

While on Utila we manage to take in a few dives with the folks at Parrot Dives while also enjoying some very good meals ashore. The Driftwood Grill on the west side of East Harbor offers Texas BBQ. As the bar/restaurant is owned by a couple of expatriate Texans the dry rub ribs are the real deal. However, the fish sandwiches are awesome.

Diamond Cay

With a good weather forecast and the urge to get going again we relocate ourselves to the west side of Utila and an anchorage behind Diamond Cay. Once again we have to thread the needle between reefs, this time we were able to follow a couple of dive boats through the cut. After the music and parties of East Harbor, the anchorage at Diamond Cay is a welcome respite. We’re able to get a good night’s rest and are off for Guatemala the morning of April 3. With a forecast of NE/SE winds in the afternoon and evening of 10-15k and light and variable in the mornings we figure to have a nice days sail on Tuesday the 3rd, likely having to motor the last 10-20 miles on Saturday the 4th of April. Ah, the best laid plans….



Diamond Cay sunset



North to the Bay Islands

Albuquerque Cays, Colombia

It’s April 9 and we have made our way to the Rio Dulce, Guatemala, it is time to catch ourselves up as we have been without the wonderful world of the interent since leaving Panama two months ago.

Weather: Everyone makes plans according to the weather, we just happen to rely upon the forecast now more than we ever did ashore. The forecast for the week of Feb. 12th for the SW Caribbean Sea is NE winds 10-15k with 4-6 foot seas out of the NE. Departing Portobelo, Panama at 1830 hours Sunday February 12, we head out into the Caribbean Sea and for the next forty one hours we experience 15-20k NE winds gusting to 25k with 6-10 foot seas from the NE. All in all things turned out to be great weather wise. Avoiding the big ships coming out of the Panama Canal proved to be the biggest headache, they apparently do not recognize a sailboats right of way.

Boto at Albuquerque Cays

Our first stop on our way to the Bay Islands of Honduras is Cayos de Albuquerque, Colombia. The cays are two small islands within a coral reef 211nm from Panama, 100nm off the coast of Nicaragua, basically in the middle of nowhere. We arrive and are anchors down by 1130 Tuesday Feb. 14. Once again we have stumbled across a little slice of paradise.

With the anchor firmly set we are off in the dinghy to visit the Marine base on North Cay. The cays are owned by Colombia and they maintain a military presence in the form of nine Marines. As we approach the beach the entire squad turns out to meet us. The group spends thirty days on the island before being relieved, as far as military rotations go I imagine there are worse. We present our papers and the officer in charge makes note in the log book, then we are asked to return to Boto. We are not allowed to tour the military island but are welcome to visit the fishing camp on South Cay.

South Cay is a heavily wooded island with several lean-too structures giving the fisherman protection from the elements. Unlike the north island which has a good stretch of sandy beach, the south island has a small sandy landing area the balance is coral and rock. We manage an abbreviated tour and then back to the boat. During our stay we are offered no fish although the fishing boats come by to say hello and to ask for cigarettes.

The Albuquerque’s are our first stop in the middle of nowhere, literally. As the sun sets the only lights are from the flashing beacon atop the radio tower on North Cay and the occasional flashlight from the fishing camp. We have front row seats as the stars begin to light up the night sky. As we enjoy the scene above we are equally entertained by the iridescent jellyfish floating around Boto. At first we think we are imagining things as the pink lights flash on and off, once we realize what they are Vicky decides against swimming.

A few days of rest and we are ready to head out again. With the afternoon sun high overhead we weave our way back through the reefs surrounding the cays and make our way to deep water. Just as we clear the outer reefs the Colombian Coast Guard happens along. We’re certain that they have been notified by the Marine base of our presence and are just checking on us. The twenty foot skiff has likely come from San Andreas a larger Colombian island some 25 miles north. Fortunately the wind is up and the seas are high discouraging the Coast Guard from wanting to board us. Instead they take our information via radio and wish us well. We encounter the Coast Guard again as we pass the island of San Andreas. That meeting takes place with another twenty foot skiff after dark and is a little more exciting.

There is a good deal of commercial traffic along our route so we have something to keep us busy along the 85nm to Providencia. Having confirmed the availability of diesel on Providencia we decided to bypass the more tourist orientated island of San Andreas, we’ve had our fill of tourists for a while. After once again relaying our particulars to the Coast Guard via radio we are bid safe travels.

rush hour, Providencia, Colombia

Our planning so far seems to be working out well as we arrive in Providencia at 0900 on 2/17 just after a brief squall rolls through. We received a note of concern from some friends who have been keeping track of us. Our anchorage in Providencia, Colombia at first appears to be in the middle of the ocean. That is correct. We assure them that we are ok, just stopping of for another dose of paradise on our way north.

one of the locals



Chula and friends

 Safely nestled within the worlds third largest barrier reef at 13*22.8N 81*22.4W are the islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina once the home to pirates and privateers, we call them home for now. We contact the Busch agency who will process all of our paperwork for entry and exit of Colombia and are promptly requested to come ashore to meet them. With Eduardo of the Busch agency, Justin the Port Captain and Javier of immigration along with Ed at the tiller our dinghy is riding very low heading away from the docks. The process is SIMPLE, in spite of all stories we have heard to the contrary. The fee to check into Providencia is $US 60. There is however a tourist fee if you plan to spend more than twenty four hours, this is US$ 25 per person. If you also visit San Andreas you will have to clear in as well paying the customs fee but not the tourist fee. The gang joins us for coffee and cookies, they loved the cookies while processing our paperwork in between bites.

our back yard

Providencia

A short trip to shore to get our bearings reveals that our Spanish 101 will work on occasion, so will English. As for the Spanish Creole, we simply smile politely and respond in Spanish. Having stretched our legs and restocked the bread shelf it’s time for a nap.



the girls, Providencia

 Saturday, February 18. 2012; although we do not often listen to the news, we do catch bits and pieces, today we hear of the death of Gary Carter at the age of 57.

Our private beach

The real adventure doesn’t always take place on the high seas, usually it is while we are in the dinghy exploring and island. In this case we are rewarded with a remote beach on the north side of Catalina Island. Chula is in heaven as there are coconuts and more than enough room to chase her ball. We’ve brought along chairs to simply sit and enjoy the view.

bounty of the sea

While not a high end destination Providencia has much to offer to the everyone. We met several folks renting homes along the bay simply enjoying the quite. For the boats we are able to load fresh water compliments of Mr. Busch’s cistern and top off our diesel and gasoline supplies. In all instances be prepared to walk. We carry the jerrycans of fuel and water making great use of the old luggage rack that Dad supplied last summer, the wheels may wobble some but it can carry 80lbs of H2O.




Our friend the Octopus.

As we and several other boats are more or less trapped by the weather outside we all have time to enjoy the island. To that end we are invited to an impromptu concert in the town square. Among the musicians is the Mayor on mandolin. In addition to the mandolin, the group boasts two guitars, maracas and “teeth”. The teeth are the jawbone of a large animal, perhaps one of the cows we see being herded around the island.

homemade music

While the winds continue to howl, we’ve registered 37k in the anchorage we sit back and read, tour the island or enjoy the beach. B Y now Chula is recovering nicely from her knee surgery and spends every day on the beach running and swimming. While the high winds may keep us harbor bound it does not reduce our ability to socialize. The only thing is that the get together can sometimes be a bit odd, as with the March 7 meeting of Phillipe and Cathi aboard “Tangerine Dreams”. Tangerine Dreams literally bumped into us at 0200 on the 7th when their anchor gave way and the boat floated back into Boto. Fortunately their dinghy was raised off their stern and it served as a large fender. After getting them untangled from our bow, we all returned to sleep. This was a major victory for Ed, as he went back to sleep and did not stay up all night worrying. Later that afternoon we were treated to food and drink aboard Tangerine Dream.



Under sail



HMCS GOOSE BAY

It has been 23 days and we have truly enjoyed Providencia, but the wind and seas have calmed and we are ready to depart. Of we are at 0300 on March 11 bound for the Viverellos Cays, another 200nm sail. Arrivning at the Viverellos at noon on the 12th we are ready for a rest. The sail was simply great one of the best ever. In spite of the fair winds and friendly seas the highlight came at 0730 on the 11th when over the VHF radio we heard; vessel at 13*46.350N 81*30.480W bearing 343* at 6k (this would be us SV Boto) this is the Canadian WARSHIP 707(aka "HMCS GOOSE BAY". That’ll make ya clinch. The Canadina Navy along with the US Coast Guard are patrolling the NW Caribbean and simply wanted to know who we were and where we were going. While we have been hailed and even boarded by the Coast Guards of various countries this was our first experience with a Warship. The 707 covered the 7 miles between us very quickly, came along side for a visual check of us and then turned on a dime and sped off in the other direction, a little bit of show boating there. Well at least we were not alone. Oh, and yes she has canons.

Viverellos

Once again anchored within a group of coral islands, the Viverellos provide a spectacular view and great protection from the oceans swell. It is always amazing to find an oasis of land in the middle of the ocean. These islands are uninhabited except for small fishing villages populated during the season. We are offered shark but no lobster, oh well. While I enjoy shark, the tiger shark in the small fishing boat was just too big for us.

With a mere 150nm left to reach the Bay Islands we are up and off at 0600 on March 14th. Once again we are able to sail nicely throughout the day, however by nightfall the wind is behind us and it is time to motor sail. Arriving at the island of Guanaja at 1100 on March 15th we clear into the country at the Settlement then retire to the anchorage of Sandy Bay. It is a clear and calm afternoon and evening turning almost chilly. With the hills blocking the NE winds and the oceans swell there is nary a ripple on the Bay as we drop our heads and fall fast asleep. After several months of high winds and choppy anchorage we have managed to sail 650nm to find a good night sleep.

Well, we have arrived at the Bay Islands of Honduras, we are now as close as we have ever been to being current with this blog, so stay tuned.

somewhere over the double rainbow