Onto St. Barts (still catching up)

Monday, April 11, 2011 (nope things are not out of order, it’s really 6/25/11 but we’re trying to be chronological). When last we left off we were preparing to leave St. Martin behind, so bright and early on 4/11, actually 1100 hours we are off for St. Barts. Our plan is to overnight there and then head onto Antigua.
On a heading of 140* with an easterly wind at 12-20k we manage a great 20nm sail. Our position and the seasons have changed so that we are once again a sailboat. With moderate seas we sit back and enjoy the ride. We read, “saildick” (the unnecessary manipulation of the set of the sails for want of something to do), nap and as it is a Monday discuss what the wealthy working folks are up too, :}. April showers bring May flowers, well the setting of the trade winds bring bigger seas and rain. So as we make our final approach we are hit with bigger waves and lots of rain. Time to get out the buckets and collect some water.
St. Barts has a colorful history, lying midway along the Lesser Antilles it has served pirates, politicians and rebels. Having been swapped back and forth between Britain, Spain, France and even Sweden the islanders and the island have had some whiplash. During the American Revolution the island served as a supply depot for the rebels. Today, St. Barts is a part of France and although the allure has faded a bit it is/was the haunt of the rich and famous. Of course we stopped by because it was along the way and the moorings are free.
Making landfall at Ile Fourche we grab a mooring and settle in for the weather and the beautiful view. While a picturesque location the anchorage can prove to be a bit bumpy as the swell seems to bounce back of the island and roll across the bay. From our observations we assume we are moored in the middle of what was once a large volcano, the slopes of the hills appear to have a good deal of sulphur content and the cone is still visible.
After a bumpy night we drop the mooring and are off for Anse de Columbier on St. Barts proper. Here you will find an excellent anchorage with a nice cooling breeze and mild swell. One can anchor in 15-20’, however we opted for a mooring as they are free. While we had planned to stay only one night we ended up staying for four as we explored the island and visited the main port of Gustavia, via the dink. Don’t tell anyone but we never checked in, keeping true to the swashbuckler spirit of the island.
As far as ports go Gustavia is very uncomfortable. There are several marinas and mooring fields, however the constant swell bangs boats about quite a bit. We were very happy with Columbier and the short ride around the point to town. During our time on St. Barts it rained every night, enough to wash down the decks and to keep the water tanks topped off. This just goes to show you it’s not all sunshine and umbrella drinks.

Although we cannot recommend the port, the town itself is wonderful; picturesque streets with wonderful old buildings, great views and plenty of eating places. So do plan to stop by. Well, it’s that time again. We need to make tracks in order to arrive in Antigua for the annual Classics Regatta and to meet up with some old friends. So Thursday April 14th we drop our mooring at 1430 hours and head off on our 80nm overnighter. As we head out of the anchorage we pass by “Pinta” whom we had last seen in the lagoon of St. Martin and from whom we picked up several parcels for “Arita”. The pont express had nothing on the crusiers mail transfer system. Dieter, the captain of “Pinta” is heading south to Guadeloupe to pick up his wife who has been back in Germany for several months, but that is a story for another time. As we set our sails we are greeted by a rainbow, a lovely sight. Of course immediately behind the rainbow are those wonderful thunderheads.

(It’s June 15th and we are still catching up, sitting in Saline Bay, Mayreau SVG) April 2; after cleaing out of BVI’s at Spanish Town we headed back to Virgin Gorda to rest up top off water and fuel and ready to jump off to St. Martin. While Leverick Bay is a wonderful location, beware the FLYs! The evening of the 2nd and the morning of the 3rd we were under attack by a swarm of fornicating flys. Fortunately we were able to deploy our screens (made last summer while in Florida) and employee the swatter. We have secured below decks while the topsides belong to the flys. We are off to make the last ‘easting’ trip to St. Martin or St. Maarten (Dutch). Apparently after you make it to St. Martin it is much easier to sail southward as the the Easterly Trades kick in and the rest of the way down island is a reach. Looking back now, 6/15, we’ve spent most of the last two months actually under sail either closed hauled or on a beam reach as the winds have generally been NE/E/ESE and fair.
With 80nm to go we’re off at high noon on April 3. We were able to sail and motor sail most of the way to St. Martin where we arrived early on the 4th, dropping anchor to await the opening of the Simpson Lagoon bridge at 0930. For those heading to St. Martin via boat, the lagoon is likely one of the safest places to spend some time, weather wise. Completely enclosed by the island with a fairly consistent depth its not a bad anchorage. You can either enter from the north (French side) or the south (Dutch side). Yes, the island is a split in two between the French and the Dutch. The south side is a much nicer bridge so we opted for this entrance. Once inside we anchored on the French side of the lagoon and checked in with the French. Interestingly, it is much cheaper and easier to clear through the French side. It is a simple online form you fill out in the office. And, guess what? The French don’t require any paperwork for puppy dogs so that is a huge PLUS!
While we were waiting for the bridge to open we listened to the local cruiser’s net on Channel 68. We announced ourselves as new arrivals and were pleasantly surprised when “Scorch” hailed us after the net to say they were in the lagoon. We met them in Boquerón, PR and spent the Christmas holidays with them. We haven’t seen them since so we are looking forward to reconnecting!

Ah, it turns out that “Eclipse”, “Ultra” and “Sabbaticus” are also here! We haven’t seen Eclipse since Stuart, FL so a girl’s get-together is quickly arranged for coffee and pastries at a French bakery. Michelle, Vicky and Deanne caught up and grazed at not one….but two….bakeries for two hours! The displays are glorious and it is almost impossible to select just one. Vicky is also sporting her new haircut that she did herself! It hadn’t been cut since she treated herself to a salon for her birthday in November of 2010!

There has been much talk about the raft called Antiki that is sailing across the Atlantic. They had hoped to make landfall in the Bahamas but weather has pushed them southward and they are anticipated to land in St. Martin this afternoon. We hopped in our dinghy and joined the crowd that had gathered to welcome them as they came into the lagoon through the Dutch bridge. It is amazing that this “boat” made it across the Atlantic.
St. Martin is a good location to resupply on boat parts. Our BBQ grill had given up on us a few days earlier because the burner had basically disintegrated. The kettle looked fantastic but when we took it apart it basically crumbled…except where it screws on! Ah, the effects of salt water! The replacement part was easy but getting the base off was a different story. After two days of soaking it in Corrosion X, WD 40 and finally Wintergreen oil (recommended by a cruiser), purchased at a health food store, it gave way. We are finally back in the business of grilling. We also picked up a cockpit light that we will hang under the bimini over our table. Ed got some new sailing gloves as well because his 7 year-old gloves were threadbare.
It has been a bit windy with periodic rain so it is nice to be in a snug anchorage. After the rain stopped we were treated to an amazing rainbow over a hill the locals call the Witches Tit. That night we joined Christopher and Geraldine (Scorch) for a rib dinner and really reasonable drinks at happy hour which made up for the fact that the band couldn’t get their speaker system to work so it was sans music that night.

Taking and island tour via the bus ($1 each) we headed to Philipsburg, on the Dutch side. This is the land of Duty Free shopping catoring to the crusie ships thatg stop in daily. We are in search of a new camera as the current camera has given up the ghost. After several shops we decided it would be better to order online, good thing we had visitors coming to see us in May. To that end a brand new camera arrived on John and Peggy’s doorstep towards the end of April. One other thing that the cruise ships afford us is a trip to McDonalds for cheeseburgers and fries. I guess we aren’t used to this type of eating anymore because that evening we both had tummy aches!

In spite of the Euro being the coin of the realm on the French side of the island, while the EC (eastern Caribbean dollar) gets you by on the Dutch side. The French side offers great opportunities for provisioning, especially close to the anchorage. If however you have the time and patience to take the bus to the Dutch side, do so. The EC is $2.6 to the US dollar, plus prices and selection are great. On the French side the Euro is going for $1.40- $1.50 US Dollars so the exchange takes a bite, however for certain items there is no better selection. The Chinese market, located on the lagoon on the Dutch side has a great selection on beer and good prices, they also carry Diet Pepsi, so we stocked up well on both counts! We also topped off our fuel supply and water supply at the local gas station. While the haul from the station is a pain the fuel is of a better quality so keep that in mind.

On our way home in the dinghy, sitting on top of several cases of beer and pop, we passed by “Ultra”. It turns out that “Sol Mates” has finally rejoined their sailing group (they convoy with Ultra and Sabbaticus). They had to break off from the group and go back to Puerto Rico when their dog, Bella, sustained a bad break to her rear leg which got stuck in the swim ladder when she jumped off the boat. Several surgeries later she is on the mend and about 80% recovered. They are hosting a welcome back party tonight and we were invited. Since we are leaving the next day they tell us we don’t need to bring anything…just show up. They had fantastic cocktails and hors de oeuvres along with vegetarian lasagna and pork cutlets. For dessert, it is Brandon’s belated birthday celebration; Joanne made the most incredible chocolate cupcakes! Brandon donned the traveling birthday hat and opened silly gifts! What a great evening!

The last day we went to the French market and picked up our daily baguette (our favorite thing about the French!) and some cheap wine before heading out on our 20nm odyssey to St. Barts at the 11:30am bridge opening.