Homeward Bound

homemade music, Isla Mujeres

June 7, 2012 949 days, 7,796 nm since we departed Texas. Well, we made our return to Kemah, Texas taking five and a half days to cross the Gulf of Mexico. We might have made better time except for a few days of little to no wind and a run in with an ocean of sea weed. More on that latter, lets wrap up our visit to Mexico first.

 We did not originally plan to stop in Mexico, as the additional expense and one more bureaucracy did not appeal to us. However, we had felt the same about Belize and were pleasantly surprised by our visit, plus a straight shot to Texas from Belize would be 1,000 miles not very appealing.

Happy Birthday to me

Birthday dinner

So off we go on the first leg of our return trip, 200nm to Cozumel. Cozumel being a tourist destination it does not lend itself to welcoming cruisers, so we simply plan to spend an evening at anchor and then head to Isla Mujeres. After 25 hours UNDER SAIL, no motoring at all we anchored off Isla de Pasion on the north of Cozumel. If you stop here get in as close to the beach as you can, this is where the calm waters are. After a calm evening it’s off to Isla Mujeres at 0700. A relatively short 40nm we once again are able to sail the trip, even snagging lunch along the way. We make such a big deal about actually sailing as historically we have spent 80% of our time motoring/motor sailing. Since the beginning of 2012 that statistic has reversed itself and we have sailed the majority of the distance from Panama to Mexico.


Lunch

Isla Mujeres

Arriving in Isla Mujeres we find once again how small the world is as our friends aboard JOANA are anchored in the lagoon. It is easy to make out the profile of this 70 foot steel brig owned and operated by Maria and Cath. Although as we buzz by to say hey on our way to anchor the only one aboard is Josh, Maria’s nephew. It seems the girls are ashore having fun, while Josh paints the boat to pay his way. Oh well it is always tough being the new guy.

the face of El Milagro

The good news for checking into Mexico is that it is not too difficult. Just remember to have five copies of all your paperwork, including; Zarpe, Boat Documentation, Crew List and Passports. For those with pets have a health certificate that is NO MORE than ten days old otherwise there will be an additional charge to aquire one from a Mexican vet, as we had to. As we were near the El Milagro Marina and they offered their services we opted to have the marina serve as our agent.

The benefit to having an agent when clearing into a country is that they organize everything. So it happened that on May 10 Julio arranged to have Customs, Immigration and Agriculture all come to meet us at the marina. Our papers and boat were inspected, Agriculture confiscated half a head of cabbage and two cans of beef [apparently Mexico is still afraid of some mad cows]. We were given the secret handshake and where thus cleared into Mexico. However, this is not the end of the process. If you plan to spend more than a few days in Mexico you must pay an importation tax. This will cost you US$50, only in US Dollars please and requires a ferry ride to Cancun to process the paperwork. All in all not difficult however, remember to bring along several copies of all your papers including passports.

life is good

Oh, for Chula the marina was good enough to call a local vet who showed up that afternoon with a health certificate already filled out. After collecting the equivalent of US$25 Dom departed. We call him Dom as he has a strong resemblance to Dom DeLouise. Hey, we’re in Mexico.

We do the norm, catch up with old friends meet new ones and do our chores. The primary chores are readying the boat to cross the Gulf of Mexico.

crossing GOM under sail

We spent two weeks in Isla Mujeres and truly enjoyed ourselves even going so far as to spend a week dockside at the El Milagro Marina. Chula insisted on having shore power so she could enjoy the air conditioner as the days grew hotter.

sunset underway

Speaking of weather, it is that time of year again and the first summer storms have already cropped up off the east coast of the US and off the Pacific coast of Central America, looks like it is time to get a move on. With fond farewells and the realization that we are about to complete our circumnavigation of the Caribbean we set out from Mexico on the morning of May 24. As an aside we recommend checking out of Mexico on your own, the expense is the same whether or not you use an agent however doing it yourself is less time consuming. The reason being that you need to visit the Port Captain to obtain a zarpe, an agent will do this however we were told it would take a day to process, we managed to get it done in 30 minutes and this even though the office was officially closed for the day.


at least we`re not alone


The weather forecast looks good and we will have the chance to sail yet again. While another TS is brewing around Florida the sun is shining and the winds are fair. We managed to sail all of Thursday the 24th and most of Friday the 25th , before the winds died. We had to sail the afternoon and evening of Saturday the 26th as we noticed a distinct vibration from the prop/driveshaft which could be a problem.

ah, a dip in the ocean first thing in the morning

Having made a whopping 27nm Saturday evening with winds less than 10k the sun is up and it is time to go over the side and investigate our problem. We did the democratic thing and took a vote, the girls voted that Ed goes under. No big deal, we’re in 11,000 feet of blue ocean and the sun is shining, it’s’ highly unlikely that the prop has been sabotaged by a hungry shark! Good news! The drive shaft and prop are ok, we had accumulated a large snag of seaweed around the prop and shaft once this was removed things were back to normal. Good thing too as the wind Sunday afternoon is less than 10k off our starboard quarter [that is almost behind us] the sails are flogging on occasion and we are motor sailing at a steady 5k.

halfway there

We are mostly alone on the Gulf sighting the occasional freighter or tanker but on Sunday afternoon to celebrate having crossed the half way mark and to accompany Chula on the bow, we are joined by a large pod of dolphins. We have easily two or three dozen dolphins cavorting in our bow wake, while Chula greets each one.

 





































Sunday evening brings into view our first oil rig, it took nearly four hours from first sight to pass the rig, HUGE!



No Toto, it`s not the Emerald City



flat calm on the GOM

Monday, 5\28 more rigs and more ships, we must be getting close to Texas and the U.S.A. . We sail for most of Monday making good time, then comes the decision on Tuesday, we can either continue to sail along in the light winds or crank u the engine and try to make Galveston before sunset. So we go with the iron jenny and guess what, the winds pick up and we are making our way toward Texas at 7 kts. WE make Galveston by 16OO, make our call to U.S. CBp and clear in to the United States by 163O. Now for the final run to Kemah. There is a lot more traffic than we are used to, but we make it to the Watergate Marina and our berth on dock 25 before sunset, as we turn into our slip we are greeted by old friends once again.

Our`s is not the only home coming, the shuttle, ok a mock model, is being ferried to the Johnson Sace Center for display.   So now we`re back where we started, guess it`s time for something new.

Belize

Well, we bid the Rio Dulce goodbye and set our course for Belize. In spite of the many stories warning us off Belize we have decided to check things out for ourselves. As we head north we soon realize that many of the Cays offer little to no protection from the NE winds. As we bypass Frenchmans Cay, Gibbs Cay and Bedford Cay we set our sights on Wild Cane, however we soon find that the anchorage at Wild Cane is no longer open to us, so make a note on your charts. We make our way into New Haven Lagoon and drop the hook after a brisk 40nm haul.


' Secret Garden', Placencia

 We’ve decided to check in at Big Creek, so we anchor off of Placencia Settlement and take the dinghy into the harbor. For those coming into Belize from the south we suggest holding off until Big Creek to check in. All three offices, Immigration, Customs and Port Authority are located within easy walking distance and the folks are great, we had no problems and the cost was minimal contrary to the stories we have heard.


beach time, Rendezvous Cay



more beach time, Southwater Cay

sea monster

end of another day, Southwater Cay

the shallows, Turneffe Cay

Our plan is to work our way through the islands off the coast of Belize over the course of two weeks before making our way to Mexico. This will involve daily hops 0f 20-30 miles through the outer and inner reefs, for the most part it’s deep water however there are several areas that require a close watch.

a morning caller, Bokel Cay

Half Moon Cay preserve

One of the highlights for those heading to Belize is the Blue Hole at Lighthouse Reef. We make our way across the shallows and anchor off of Half Moon Cay where we explore the islands nature preserve and Boobie nesting area. With the sun over our shoulder we snake our way through the coral heads and reefs to the blue hole where we opt to snorkel the edge rather than dive into the 500’ former cave. This is a monumental snorkel as it is Vicky’s first swim with a shark. Her new friend is a 4-5 foot black tip that had no real interest in us, thankfully.

dragons of Half Moon Cay



nesting Redfooted Boobie



a couple of big Boobies

Vicky on bow watch

Chula on bow watch

dark spot equals coral heads and reefs

more coral ahead

a Sunday afternoon, Ambergris Cay

where to next

Our final destination in Belize is Ambergris Cay where we settle in for a few days of relaxation before our overnight trip to Cozumel, Mexico. The route from Belize to Mexico is a simple one and we have a very good weather forecast which should allow us to actually sail the 200nm, that’ll be a treat. Our plan is to get ourselves to Isla Mujeres for a few weeks rest and to enjoy our last island in the Caribbean. After Isla Mujeres it’ll be a long haul across the Gulf of Mexico to Texas. Well, that’s for later, for now we are still in the Caribbean.

Vicky gets a day off

cruising to Mexico, another 200nm

sunrise, Cozumel

Heeeeeeere's breakfast



Sweet River

Rio Dulce, or Sweet River. This has been the first time that Boto has been in fresh water and she along with her crew really liked it. The Rio meets the Caribbean Sea at the town of Livingston then winds its way into El Golfete and on into Lago de Izabel. The trip along the river is through steep cliffs and wild jungle with occasional settlements along the banks, it is truly a visual treat, to that end we hope you enjoy our trip along the Rio.

welcome to Livingston

 

first leg up the Rio




navigating the jungle

 

the welcome wagons [or canoes]



full of joy

the beautiful colors

We’ve mentioned the shopping, but we just can not resists revisiting the market.

Rio Dulce 

Then there’s people you meet along the way, this trio is a long way from Boise.

If you think you’re commute is no fun, try hauling the days firewood.



the entrance to Lake Isabel

 

is guarded by Castillo San Felie
























We couldn’t have a photo session without a diva, so let us strike a pose.



this is Lake Isabel



so is this

Denny's Beach Bar, Lake Isabel

'still life'

Of course our trip into Lago de Izabel was peaceful and calm, we were chased off the lake shortly after sunrise by high winds and big waves, hey we’re seasoned ocean sailors, but a lake squall is scary. Then Captain Butthead snagged a fishing net, now there’s a good time, untangling an underwater net from the rudder and keel at 0600.

ah, sunrise

sunrise with some nasty weather

back on the Rio, with clear skies

I too had a POS to get around in back in the day, note that one can see the folded cuff of the drivers jeans through the gunnel, that’d be a hole in da’ boat, but she still floats.

 

this house is for sale



hook em'



back on Texan Bay

the calm waters of Texan Bay

these folks deliver fresh bread to the boats

got an old tire

turn it into a Tucan

the yellow building is a school

this is the school bus

farewell to Livingston

Well, it’s now May 10th and we have put Guatemala astern and worked our way through Belize. We had been on the fence with regards to visiting Belize on the boat as we have heard many negatives from other sailors and there has been an increase in crime, including attacks against boaters. We can tell you that all went well for us in Belize and we were pleasantly surprised by our experience. Guess that goes to show you. Well, hope you enjoyed the tour of the Rio, we’ll get back with our visit to Belize shortly, for now adios.